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對GB/T4802.1-2008《紡織品織物起毛起球性能的測定第1 部分：圓軌跡法》的研究
時間：2020-06-18 10:58
織(zhi)物(wu)在(zai)(zai)穿(chuan)著(zhu)過程中(zhong)(zhong)由于其內部(纖維(wei)種類(lei)、織(zhi)物(wu)結構、后整(zheng)理(li)等(deng))和外部(摩擦、勾絲等(deng))原因,容易產(chan)生起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)的(de)不良現(xian)象,這嚴重(zhong)影響(xiang)了(le)紡(fang)織(zhi)服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)的(de)服(fu)(fu)用(yong)性(xing)能(neng)和美觀(guan)性(xing)能(neng)。我(wo)國現(xian)行的(de)紡(fang)織(zhi)服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)測(ce)試(shi)方(fang)法(fa)(fa)目前有4種：圓軌(gui)跡(ji)法(fa)(fa)、改型馬丁代爾法(fa)(fa)、起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)箱法(fa)(fa)和隨即翻滾法(fa)(fa),對應方(fang)法(fa)(fa)標準分別為(wei) GBT4802.1—-2008、GBT4802.2—2008、GB/T4802.3—2008和 GBT4802.4——2009。據檢測(ce)機構統計,這幾種測(ce)試(shi)方(fang)法(fa)(fa)中(zhong)(zhong)圓軌(gui)跡(ji)起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)法(fa)(fa)使(shi)用(yong)較為(wei)頻繁。在(zai)(zai)所有測(ce)試(shi)方(fang)法(fa)(fa)中(zhong)(zhong)使(shi)用(yong)占(zhan)比80%。在(zai)(zai)《針織(zhi)運(yun)動服(fu)(fu)》《針織(zhi)休閑服(fu)(fu)》《單、夾(jia)服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)》《男西服(fu)(fu)》《針織(zhi)T恤(xu)衫(shan)》等(deng)產(chan)品標準中(zhong)(zhong)起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)測(ce)試(shi)標準均采(cai)用(yong)圓軌(gui)跡(ji)法(fa)(fa)。由此(ci)可見,圓軌(gui)跡(ji)法(fa)(fa)起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)試(shi)驗標準的(de)系統、規范和完整(zheng)對織(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)性(xing)能(neng)評(ping)價的(de)準確(que)性(xing)至關重(zhong)要。本文(wen)對現(xian)行 GBT4802.1-2008 圓軌(gui)跡(ji)法(fa)(fa)起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)檢測(ce)標準中(zhong)(zhong)織(zhi)物(wu)磨料、泡沫塑(su)料墊片、尼龍刷等(deng)試(shi)驗材料存在(zai)(zai)的(de)問題和不足進(jin)行了(le)分析和研究,并提出一些意見和建(jian)議。
1、起毛起球機理
在(zai)我們日常生活中(zhong),紡織(zhi)(zhi)品(pin)經常穿(chuan)、用和(he)(he)(he)(he)洗滌.持續遭(zao)到外界(jie)和(he)(he)(he)(he)本(ben)身的摩擦力(li)(li)和(he)(he)(he)(he)其他作(zuo)用力(li)(li),其表層的纖維逐(zhu)漸被拉出(chu)而(er)凸(tu)出(chu)顯(xian)露,在(zai)紡織(zhi)(zhi)品(pin)表面呈現很多碎小絨毛(mao)(mao)，這個過(guo)程(cheng)為(wei)“起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)”：在(zai)不斷(duan)使用過(guo)程(cheng)中(zhong)絨毛(mao)(mao)未能(neng)從紡織(zhi)(zhi)品(pin)表面隨(sui)即脫離,而(er)彼此纏(chan)繞在(zai)一起(qi)(qi),形(xing)(xing)成許多致密(mi)的球(qiu)形(xing)(xing)小粒(li),這個過(guo)程(cheng)為(wei)“起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)”。圓軌跡(ji)法(fa)試(shi)(shi)驗采(cai)用尼(ni)(ni)龍刷(shua)和(he)(he)(he)(he)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)磨料試(shi)(shi)驗材料抑或只用織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)磨料。按(an)照(zhao)規定方(fang)法(fa)和(he)(he)(he)(he)測試(shi)(shi)參數,使試(shi)(shi)驗樣(yang)品(pin)摩擦發生起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu),再在(zai)評級箱中(zhong)定的光源照(zhao)射條件下(xia),對(dui)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)情況做視覺描述評級。作(zuo)為(wei)主(zhu)要(yao)試(shi)(shi)驗材料的織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)磨料，泡(pao)沫(mo)塑料墊片(pian)和(he)(he)(he)(he)尼(ni)(ni)龍刷(shua)對(dui)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)評定級數要(yao)重大影響(xiang)。
2、影響因素
2.1 織物磨料(liao)
標準中(zhong)對(dui)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)磨(mo)(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)的(de)規(gui)(gui)定(ding)為(wei)(wei)(wei)：材質為(wei)(wei)(wei)2201全毛華達呢,織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)組織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)兩上兩下右(you)斜紋線密度(du)為(wei)(wei)(wei)19.6tex×2，捻度(du)為(wei)(wei)(wei) Z625-S700，密度(du)為(wei)(wei)(wei) 445根/10cm×244根/l0cm，單(dan)位面(mian)積質量為(wei)(wei)(wei) 305g/m2。附錄A中(zhong)關于磨(mo)(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)的(de)更(geng)(geng)換規(gui)(gui)定(ding)為(wei)(wei)(wei)：因長(chang)時間試(shi)驗(yan)會對(dui)磨(mo)(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)造(zao)成磨(mo)(mo)損(sun),為(wei)(wei)(wei)避免(mian)這(zhe)(zhe)種情況影(ying)響試(shi)樣起(qi)毛起(qi)球程度(du)的(de)正(zheng)確(que)判定(ding).作為(wei)(wei)(wei)磨(mo)(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)的(de)2201華達呢應定(ding)期進行(xing)校(xiao)驗(yan),新(xin)的(de)磨(mo)(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)經(jing)過預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)后方可試(shi)驗(yan)：如(ru)果(guo)同一織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)采用新(xin)舊華達呢磨(mo)(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)試(shi)驗(yan)所得(de)起(qi)毛起(qi)球級(ji)數(shu)(shu)相差(cha)(cha)(cha)達到半級(ji)以上,則應及時更(geng)(geng)換新(xin)的(de)磨(mo)(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)。但織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)磨(mo)(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)在用于試(shi)驗(yan)前要經(jing)過怎樣具體(ti)(ti)參(can)數(shu)(shu)的(de)預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)才能正(zheng)式使用未(wei)點明：不同類型織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)起(qi)毛起(qi)球等級(ji)也(ye)相差(cha)(cha)(cha)很多,新(xin)舊華達呢磨(mo)(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)級(ji)數(shu)(shu)相差(cha)(cha)(cha)半級(ji)以上,具體(ti)(ti)以哪種標準織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)為(wei)(wei)(wei)參(can)考、選(xuan)取哪種試(shi)驗(yan)參(can)數(shu)(shu),也(ye)未(wei)清晰規(gui)(gui)定(ding)。在JF(紡織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi))031—2013《織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)起(qi)毛起(qi)球儀(圓軌跡法(fa))校(xiao)準規(gui)(gui)范》中(zhong)對(dui)于儀器的(de)校(xiao)準項目和校(xiao)準方法(fa)中(zhong)也(ye)未(wei)提(ti)到織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)磨(mo)(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)的(de)檢查。這(zhe)(zhe)些漏洞(dong)可能會對(dui)實驗(yan)室起(qi)球級(ji)數(shu)(shu)評定(ding)準確(que)性(xing)產生影(ying)響。
建議標(biao)(biao)準(zhun)(zhun)中補充對磨(mo)料織(zhi)物的預磨(mo)參數規定,如用(yong)什么(me)標(biao)(biao)準(zhun)(zhun)類型(xing)織(zhi)物在多(duo)(duo)少(shao)壓力條件下預磨(mo)多(duo)(duo)少(shao)次：補充對更換舊(jiu)織(zhi)物磨(mo)料的起球評價標(biao)(biao)準(zhun)(zhun)參考(kao)織(zhi)物的規定,統(tong)一標(biao)(biao)準(zhun)(zhun)物質和試驗參數。
2.2 泡沫(mo)塑料(liao)墊(dian)片
標準中對泡沫(mo)塑料墊片的規(gui)定(ding)為：墊片直(zhi)徑、厚度(du)、單(dan)位面積質量分(fen)別約(yue)為 105mm、8mm、270g/m2。只模糊(hu)規(gui)定(ding)了各(ge)(ge)參(can)數大約(yue)值，未(wei)詳細規(gui)定(ding)其上下(xia)允(yun)差,這使得各(ge)(ge)檢測機構試(shi)驗用(yong)泡沫(mo)塑料墊片密度(du)、硬度(du)、厚度(du)等(deng)不統(tong)一，從而影響試(shi)驗結(jie)果精(jing)準性。
蘇(su)丹霞(xia)研究(jiu)了泡(pao)沫塑(su)料(liao)墊片(pian)的厚(hou)(hou)度和(he)硬(ying)度對(dui)織物(wu)起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)結(jie)果的影響(xiang)(xiang)，結(jie)果表(biao)明(ming)(ming)同一(yi)(yi)硬(ying)度條件下，不同厚(hou)(hou)度的塑(su)料(liao)墊片(pian)使得織物(wu)起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)等(deng)級可相(xiang)差一(yi)(yi)級；同一(yi)(yi)厚(hou)(hou)度條件下，不同硬(ying)度的塑(su)料(liao)墊片(pian)制得織物(wu)起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)等(deng)級可相(xiang)差半(ban)級。董躍研究(jiu)了泡(pao)沫塑(su)料(liao)墊片(pian)的表(biao)觀密度對(dui)織物(wu)起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)結(jie)果的影響(xiang)(xiang)，結(jie)果表(biao)明(ming)(ming)不同表(biao)觀密度的塑(su)料(liao)墊片(pian)對(dui)化學短纖混紡織物(wu)起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)等(deng)級產生較大(da)影響(xiang)(xiang)，可使其起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)等(deng)級相(xiang)差一(yi)(yi)級。
由此可見,泡沫(mo)塑料墊(dian)片約定寬松的(de)參數會(hui)對試驗結果產生較大影(ying)響,建議制定嚴格的(de)參數設置,詳(xiang)細(xi)規定其(qi)單位面積(ji)質(zhi)量，厚度(du)的(de)上下允差范圍和硬度(du)大小。
2.3 尼龍刷
標準中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)對(dui)(dui)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷的(de)(de)(de)(de)規(gui)(gui)定為：尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)每(mei)(mei)孔中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)植尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)絲150根,孔徑4.5mm,每(mei)(mei)孔間距(ju)7mm,每(mei)(mei)根尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)絲直徑0.3mm；所用尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)絲的(de)(de)(de)(de)剛(gang)性(xing)大小(xiao)要(yao)均勻一致：尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷刷面(mian)要(yao)求平整，在同一水(shui)平面(mian)上(shang)；尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)絲的(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)效(xiao)高度(du)(du)可通過(guo)調(diao)節(jie)板上(shang)下調(diao)節(jie)，從而控制尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷的(de)(de)(de)(de)起毛(mao)效(xiao)果。另外附錄A中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)增加了對(dui)(dui)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷調(diao)節(jie)的(de)(de)(de)(de)描寫(xie)。作為對(dui)(dui)織物(wu)起毛(mao)起主要(yao)作用的(de)(de)(de)(de)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷,標準中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)對(dui)(dui)其的(de)(de)(de)(de)規(gui)(gui)定太籠統,如尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷制備(bei)材料尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)絲的(de)(de)(de)(de)剛(gang)性(xing)大小(xiao)、新尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷的(de)(de)(de)(de)預磨參數、試驗用尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷的(de)(de)(de)(de)高度(du)(du)范圍等,這(zhe)些(xie)因素都(dou)對(dui)(dui)織物(wu)起毛(mao)起球性(xing)能產生很大影響。
尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)剛(gang)性(xing)大小(xiao)對(dui)(dui)(dui)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)的(de)(de)(de)起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球性(xing)能(neng)具有決定性(xing)影響(xiang)。剛(gang)性(xing)較(jiao)大的(de)(de)(de)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)使(shi)得尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)(shua)對(dui)(dui)(dui)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)產生(sheng)較(jiao)大作(zuo)用(yong)力,從而(er)(er)使(shi)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)(qi)球級數較(jiao)低(di)：而(er)(er)剛(gang)性(xing)較(jiao)小(xiao)的(de)(de)(de)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)使(shi)得尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)(shua)對(dui)(dui)(dui)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)產生(sheng)較(jiao)小(xiao)作(zuo)用(yong)力,從而(er)(er)使(shi)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)(qi)球級數較(jiao)高。標準中對(dui)(dui)(dui)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)的(de)(de)(de)只提到(dao)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)的(de)(de)(de)剛(gang)性(xing)應均勻一(yi)致(zhi)(zhi),而(er)(er)未詳細規定尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)剛(gang)性(xing)值(zhi)大小(xiao)。目(mu)前市場上銷售的(de)(de)(de)圓(yuan)軌跡起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球試驗(yan)儀所(suo)配的(de)(de)(de)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)(shua)來自不同的(de)(de)(de)加工廠家。全國各實驗(yan)室所(suo)用(yong)的(de)(de)(de)設備型(xing)號。廠家也不盡(jin)相同,尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)(shua)剛(gang)性(xing)值(zhi)不統一(yi)，這對(dui)(dui)(dui)試驗(yan)結果(guo)的(de)(de)(de)精準性(xing)和一(yi)致(zhi)(zhi)性(xing)造成(cheng)嚴重影響(xiang)。
剛出(chu)廠的新尼龍(long)刷(shua)由(you)于尼龍(long)絲頭(tou)端(duan)形態不(bu)(bu)一(yi)(yi)致,有尖銳端(duan)或凹陷不(bu)(bu)平端(duan),對織物(wu)起毛起球效果(guo)的正(zheng)確(que)評估會產生不(bu)(bu)利影響,所以正(zheng)式(shi)試驗前應(ying)進行預(yu)(yu)(yu)磨(mo)(mo)。而(er)附錄(lu)A中對預(yu)(yu)(yu)磨(mo)(mo)的規定為：新尼龍(long)刷(shua)正(zheng)式(shi)試驗前應(ying)進行一(yi)(yi)定次(ci)(ci)數(shu)的預(yu)(yu)(yu)磨(mo)(mo)并用(yong)參(can)照(zhao)織物(wu)校(xiao)核。未(wei)詳(xiang)細(xi)說明(ming)新尼龍(long)刷(shua)具體預(yu)(yu)(yu)磨(mo)(mo)參(can)數(shu),如預(yu)(yu)(yu)磨(mo)(mo)材料、預(yu)(yu)(yu)磨(mo)(mo)載荷預(yu)(yu)(yu)磨(mo)(mo)次(ci)(ci)數(shu)等。也未(wei)規定具體用(yong)哪種參(can)照(zhao)織物(wu)校(xiao)核,預(yu)(yu)(yu)磨(mo)(mo)后參(can)照(zhao)織物(wu)起毛起球效果(guo)達(da)到幾級。
尼龍(long)(long)刷試驗有(you)(you)效(xiao)(xiao)高(gao)(gao)度(du)(du)(du)對織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)毛起(qi)球效(xiao)(xiao)果也產(chan)生(sheng)影響。有(you)(you)效(xiao)(xiao)高(gao)(gao)度(du)(du)(du)高(gao)(gao)時,尼龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)屈(qu)曲程度(du)(du)(du)大,尼龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)束較(jiao)分散(san),相對運(yun)動(dong)時尼龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)束與(yu)(yu)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)相互作(zuo)用(yong)力小(xiao),使得(de)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)球級數較(jiao)高(gao)(gao):有(you)(you)效(xiao)(xiao)高(gao)(gao)度(du)(du)(du)低時,尼龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)屈(qu)曲程度(du)(du)(du)小(xiao),尼龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)束較(jiao)聚(ju)集,相對運(yun)動(dong)時尼龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)束與(yu)(yu)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)相互作(zuo)用(yong)力大，使得(de)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)球級數較(jiao)低。標準中只提(ti)到尼龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)高(gao)(gao)度(du)(du)(du)應一致,可調節其有(you)(you)效(xiao)(xiao)高(gao)(gao)度(du)(du)(du),但(dan)有(you)(you)效(xiao)(xiao)高(gao)(gao)度(du)(du)(du)適宜范圍值未作(zuo)規定,這亟須進一步統一規定。
3、結論(lun)
為確(que)保圓軌跡起毛(mao)起球測試方(fang)法(fa)的(de)嚴謹(jin)性和精準(zhun)性建(jian)議修訂 GBT4802.1-2008 標準(zhun)時增加以下(xia)內(nei)容
(1)補充(chong)對磨(mo)料(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)(de)預(yu)磨(mo)參數(shu)(shu)(織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)種類、預(yu)磨(mo)壓力、預(yu)磨(mo)次數(shu)(shu))規定(ding)和對更(geng)換(huan)舊(jiu)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)磨(mo)料(liao)的(de)(de)起球(qiu)評(ping)價標準參考織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)(de)規定(ding),統(tong)一標準物(wu)(wu)質和試驗(yan)參數(shu)(shu)。
(2)詳細規(gui)定泡沫塑料(liao)墊片單位面積質量、厚(hou)度(du)的(de)上下允差(cha)范圍和(he)硬(ying)度(du)大小。
(3)對尼龍刷的制備材料(liao)尼龍絲(si)剛性(xing)值統一規(gui)定；補充對新(xin)尼龍刷預(yu)(yu)磨(mo)參數(shu)(預(yu)(yu)磨(mo)材料(liao)、預(yu)(yu)磨(mo)載荷、預(yu)(yu)磨(mo)次數(shu))的規(gui)定,明確校核參照織物:對尼龍刷試驗有(you)效高(gao)度(du)加以規(gui)定。