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表1羊絨衫起球評定(ding)指標
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羊絨衫起球的原因分析及評定指標
時間：19-06-25 08:34
羊絨(rong)(rong)(rong)衫(shan)(shan)以其非凡的(de)(de)(de)(de)風格和高雅(ya)的(de)(de)(de)(de)氣質(zhi)，深受廣大消(xiao)費者的(de)(de)(de)(de)喜愛(ai)，但(dan)羊絨(rong)(rong)(rong)衫(shan)(shan)起球問(wen)題普(pu)遍，嚴重困擾了消(xiao)費者的(de)(de)(de)(de)使(shi)用。羊絨(rong)(rong)(rong)衫(shan)(shan)起球與(yu)羊絨(rong)(rong)(rong)纖維特點(dian)、面料結構和消(xiao)費者穿著(zhu)習慣都有(you)(you)關系。國家(jia)標準規(gui)定，只要羊絨(rong)(rong)(rong)衫(shan)(shan)起球等級不超過允許的(de)(de)(de)(de)范圍就是合格產品，即使(shi)質(zhi)量(liang)最上乘的(de)(de)(de)(de)羊絨(rong)(rong)(rong)衫(shan)(shan)，在剛(gang)開(kai)始穿著(zhu)時(shi)也會在的(de)(de)(de)(de)適(shi)度的(de)(de)(de)(de)范圍內(nei)有(you)(you)輕微的(de)(de)(de)(de)起球現象(xiang)。本文為(wei)您(nin)做詳細分析。
一、羊絨衫起球(qiu)的原因(yin)
1）纖維(wei)紗線
羊(yang)絨(rong)(rong)纖(xian)維的(de)(de)(de)(de)細度(du)、長(chang)度(du)、卷曲是重要的(de)(de)(de)(de)工藝特征，羊(yang)絨(rong)(rong)與(yu)羊(yang)毛相(xiang)比，首先是細度(du)小、長(chang)度(du)短、卷曲數少，這樣纖(xian)維在(zai)紗中(zhong)(zhong)抱合力小，外露毛羽(yu)多(duo)，再加上纖(xian)維滑糯在(zai)外力的(de)(de)(de)(de)作用下(xia)從織(zhi)物中(zhong)(zhong)滑移而產生掉絨(rong)(rong)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)。其次是其纖(xian)維的(de)(de)(de)(de)縮絨(rong)(rong)性(xing)和磨擦系(xi)數均(jun)小，纖(xian)維間的(de)(de)(de)(de)磨擦阻(zu)力減少，但(dan)因羊(yang)絨(rong)(rong)纖(xian)維的(de)(de)(de)(de)鱗片結(jie)構，使得羊(yang)絨(rong)(rong)純紡(fang)或(huo)是與(yu)羊(yang)毛混紡(fang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)織(zhi)物，羊(yang)絨(rong)(rong)易從織(zhi)物中(zhong)(zhong)滑移出來，當(dang)纖(xian)維的(de)(de)(de)(de)集合體(ti)受到無定向性(xing)外力的(de)(de)(de)(de)作用，逆鱗片受力的(de)(de)(de)(de)纖(xian)維容(rong)易不斷(duan)向根(gen)部移運(yun)，產生掉絨(rong)(rong)，由于鱗片之間的(de)(de)(de)(de)棘鎖和纖(xian)維體(ti)的(de)(de)(de)(de)彈(dan)性(xing)，纖(xian)維相(xiang)互交錯纏結(jie)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)，也引起(qi)(qi)了動物纖(xian)維所特有的(de)(de)(de)(de)氈縮。
羊絨(rong)(rong)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)的(de)導電(dian)(dian)(dian)能力差，衣服在穿著時(shi)(shi)，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)間(jian)(jian)互(hu)相(xiang)磨擦，造成電(dian)(dian)(dian)荷(he)在纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)聚集，產生靜(jing)電(dian)(dian)(dian)現象，介電(dian)(dian)(dian)系數高的(de)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)帶(dai)正電(dian)(dian)(dian)荷(he)，反之(zhi)帶(dai)負(fu)(fu)電(dian)(dian)(dian)荷(he)。如化學纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)與羊絨(rong)(rong)磨擦時(shi)(shi)，化學纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)帶(dai)負(fu)(fu)電(dian)(dian)(dian)荷(he)，羊絨(rong)(rong)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)帶(dai)正電(dian)(dian)(dian)荷(he)。不相(xiang)同電(dian)(dian)(dian)荷(he)的(de)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)之(zhi)間(jian)(jian)相(xiang)互(hu)吸引，易造成織(zhi)物(wu)掉絨(rong)(rong)起(qi)球(qiu)，當天氣干燥時(shi)(shi)這(zhe)種現象尤為嚴(yan)重(zhong)。
纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)卷曲(qu)波形愈(yu)(yu)多，在加(jia)捻(nian)時(shi)，纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)越不(bu)容(rong)易(yi)(yi)伸展，在摩擦過程(cheng)中纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)容(rong)易(yi)(yi)松動滑移，在紗線表(biao)面形成毛(mao)茸。為此，纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)卷曲(qu)性愈(yu)(yu)好(hao)，愈(yu)(yu)易(yi)(yi)起(qi)球(qiu)。纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)愈(yu)(yu)細，顯(xian)露在紗線表(biao)面的(de)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)頭端就多，纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)柔軟(ruan)性也(ye)愈(yu)(yu)好(hao)，因此細纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)比粗纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)易(yi)(yi)于糾纏起(qi)球(qiu)。而對(dui)于纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)長(chang)度來講，較短纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)比長(chang)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)易(yi)(yi)于起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)，因游離纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)較多，且短纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)之間的(de)摩擦力及抱(bao)合力均較小(xiao)，纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)易(yi)(yi)于滑到織物表(biao)面，也(ye)就容(rong)易(yi)(yi)產生起(qi)球(qiu)現象。
紗(sha)線(xian)(xian)的捻(nian)度(du)(du)和表面光潔程度(du)(du)對(dui)起(qi)球也有較大(da)影(ying)響，捻(nian)度(du)(du)高的紗(sha)線(xian)(xian)，纖維間的抱合緊(jin)密，紗(sha)線(xian)(xian)在(zai)受到摩擦時，纖維從(cong)紗(sha)線(xian)(xian)內滑移相(xiang)對(dui)少，起(qi)球現(xian)象減少；由于羊絨(rong)衫是柔軟性織物(wu)，過高的捻(nian)度(du)(du)會使織物(wu)發硬，因此(ci)不能靠提高捻(nian)度(du)(du)來(lai)防止起(qi)球。紗(sha)線(xian)(xian)光潔度(du)(du)的影(ying)響，紗(sha)線(xian)(xian)越(yue)光潔，表面毛茸(rong)則短而少，所以光潔紗(sha)線(xian)(xian)不易起(qi)球。
2）織物組織結構(gou)
織(zhi)物(wu)組織(zhi)結(jie)(jie)構疏松的(de)(de)(de)織(zhi)物(wu)比結(jie)(jie)構緊(jin)密的(de)(de)(de)織(zhi)物(wu)易起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)球，結(jie)(jie)構緊(jin)密的(de)(de)(de)織(zhi)物(wu)與(yu)外(wai)界物(wu)體(ti)摩(mo)擦時(shi)，不(bu)易產生(sheng)毛(mao)茸，已經存(cun)在(zai)的(de)(de)(de)毛(mao)茸，又(you)由(you)于纖維(wei)之間的(de)(de)(de)摩(mo)擦阻力較大，而不(bu)易滑到織(zhi)物(wu)表面(mian)來，故可減(jian)輕起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)球現象。高(gao)機(ji)(ji)號織(zhi)物(wu)一(yi)般比較緊(jin)密，所以低(di)機(ji)(ji)號織(zhi)物(wu)比高(gao)機(ji)(ji)號織(zhi)物(wu)易起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)球。表面(mian)平(ping)整的(de)(de)(de)織(zhi)物(wu)不(bu)易起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)球，表面(mian)凹凸不(bu)平(ping)的(de)(de)(de)織(zhi)物(wu)易起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)球。
3）染整工(gong)藝的(de)影響
紗線或織(zhi)物經(jing)(jing)染色及(ji)整(zheng)(zheng)理以(yi)后(hou)，對抗起(qi)球性將產生較大影響，這與染料(liao)、助劑、染整(zheng)(zheng)工藝條件有關，以(yi)絞紗染色的紗線比(bi)用散毛染色或毛條染色的紗線易起(qi)球；以(yi)成(cheng)衫(shan)染色的織(zhi)物比(bi)紗線染色所(suo)織(zhi)的織(zhi)物易起(qi)球；織(zhi)物經(jing)(jing)過定(ding)型，特別是(shi)經(jing)(jing)樹(shu)脂整(zheng)(zheng)理后(hou)，其抗起(qi)毛起(qi)球性將大大增強。
4）穿著條件的影(ying)響(xiang)
起球(qiu)現象需要從紡織(zhi)(zhi)品(pin)起球(qiu)的(de)(de)(de)機理說起。羊絨衫(shan)在(zai)穿(chuan)著(zhu)過程中，由(you)于(yu)外罩(zhao)（如外衣）施加(jia)的(de)(de)(de)摩擦等作用(yong)，紗線中較短(duan)的(de)(de)(de)纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)(de)一端滑(hua)移出來，在(zai)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)表面相互纏結成球(qiu)。而羊絨纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)比羊毛的(de)(de)(de)纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)細(xi)而短(duan)，加(jia)上一般的(de)(de)(de)羊絨衫(shan)為粗梳產品(pin)，羊絨紗中的(de)(de)(de)短(duan)纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)含量較高，更容(rong)易“呲”出來彼(bi)此纏結。
因此(ci)羊絨衫(shan)在內穿(chuan)時，與其配套的外(wai)衣里子(zi)最好是光滑的，不能太粗糙、堅硬，內袋勿裝硬物或插筆等(deng)，以免局部摩擦(ca)起球；在外(wai)穿(chuan)時，袖(xiu)子(zi)與桌面、袖(xiu)子(zi)與沙發(fa)扶(fu)手、背部與沙發(fa)等(deng)不要長(chang)時間摩擦(ca)。穿(chuan)著時間不宜太長(chang)，要注意(yi)間歇、交替穿(chuan)著，使其恢復彈力，以免纖(xian)維疲勞損傷。
羊絨(rong)衫出現起球(qiu)現象(xiang)之(zhi)(zhi)后，切忌(ji)用(yong)手生(sheng)拉硬扯，正確(que)的(de)方法是(shi)(shi)在洗滌后用(yong)剪刀(dao)將起的(de)絨(rong)球(qiu)輕(qing)輕(qing)地剪下，在經過幾(ji)次洗滌之(zhi)(zhi)后，隨著一些松散(san)的(de)纖維脫(tuo)落，羊絨(rong)衫的(de)起球(qiu)現象(xiang)是(shi)(shi)會逐漸消失的(de)。
二(er)、羊絨(rong)衫起球的評定
羊(yang)絨(rong)衫的(de)起(qi)球(qiu)測定方法主要(yao)采取GB/T 4802.3—2008《織物起(qi)毛起(qi)球(qiu)性能的(de)測定第(di)3部(bu)分起(qi)球(qiu)箱(xiang)法》。產品(pin)(pin)標準(zhun)有FZ/T 73018—2012 《毛針織品(pin)(pin)》和FZ/T 73009—2009《羊(yang)絨(rong)針織品(pin)(pin)》，具體的(de)評定等級(ji)見表
表1羊絨衫起球評定(ding)指標
注：低于(yu)二等品的為等外品。
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