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表1羊絨衫起球評(ping)定指標
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羊絨衫起球的原因分析及評定指標
時間：19-06-25 08:34
羊(yang)絨(rong)衫(shan)(shan)以其非凡(fan)的(de)風格和(he)高雅的(de)氣質，深受廣大消費(fei)者的(de)喜愛，但(dan)羊(yang)絨(rong)衫(shan)(shan)起(qi)(qi)球問題普遍，嚴重困擾了消費(fei)者的(de)使用。羊(yang)絨(rong)衫(shan)(shan)起(qi)(qi)球與羊(yang)絨(rong)纖維特點、面料結構和(he)消費(fei)者穿著習慣都有關系。國家標(biao)準規(gui)定，只要羊(yang)絨(rong)衫(shan)(shan)起(qi)(qi)球等級(ji)不超過允許的(de)范圍(wei)(wei)就是合格產品，即使質量最上乘的(de)羊(yang)絨(rong)衫(shan)(shan)，在剛開始(shi)穿著時也會在的(de)適(shi)度(du)的(de)范圍(wei)(wei)內有輕微的(de)起(qi)(qi)球現(xian)象。本文為您做詳細分析。
一、羊(yang)絨衫起球的原(yuan)因
1）纖(xian)維(wei)紗(sha)線
羊(yang)絨(rong)纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)細(xi)度、長度、卷曲是(shi)(shi)重要的(de)工藝特征，羊(yang)絨(rong)與(yu)羊(yang)毛(mao)相比，首先是(shi)(shi)細(xi)度小(xiao)、長度短、卷曲數少，這樣纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)在(zai)紗(sha)中抱合力(li)小(xiao)，外露毛(mao)羽多(duo)，再(zai)加上纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)滑(hua)糯在(zai)外力(li)的(de)作(zuo)用下(xia)從織(zhi)物(wu)中滑(hua)移而(er)產生掉絨(rong)起(qi)球。其(qi)次是(shi)(shi)其(qi)纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)縮(suo)絨(rong)性和磨擦(ca)系數均(jun)小(xiao)，纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)間的(de)磨擦(ca)阻力(li)減(jian)少，但(dan)因羊(yang)絨(rong)纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)鱗(lin)片結構，使得羊(yang)絨(rong)純紡或(huo)是(shi)(shi)與(yu)羊(yang)毛(mao)混紡的(de)織(zhi)物(wu)，羊(yang)絨(rong)易從織(zhi)物(wu)中滑(hua)移出來，當纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)集合體(ti)受到無定(ding)向(xiang)性外力(li)的(de)作(zuo)用，逆鱗(lin)片受力(li)的(de)纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)容易不斷向(xiang)根(gen)部移運，產生掉絨(rong)，由于鱗(lin)片之間的(de)棘鎖和纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)體(ti)的(de)彈(dan)性，纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)相互交錯(cuo)纏結起(qi)球，也引起(qi)了動物(wu)纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)所特有的(de)氈縮(suo)。
羊絨纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維的(de)導電能(neng)力差，衣服(fu)在穿著時，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維間(jian)互相磨擦，造(zao)成電荷在纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維聚集，產生靜電現(xian)象(xiang)，介電系數高(gao)的(de)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維帶正電荷，反之(zhi)帶負電荷。如化學纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維與羊絨磨擦時，化學纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維帶負電荷，羊絨纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維帶正電荷。不相同電荷的(de)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維之(zhi)間(jian)相互吸引，易造(zao)成織物掉(diao)絨起(qi)球(qiu)，當天氣干燥時這種現(xian)象(xiang)尤為嚴重(zhong)。
纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)的卷(juan)曲(qu)(qu)波形(xing)愈多，在(zai)加捻時(shi)，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)越不容(rong)易(yi)伸展，在(zai)摩(mo)擦(ca)過程中(zhong)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)容(rong)易(yi)松動(dong)滑移(yi)，在(zai)紗(sha)線表(biao)面(mian)形(xing)成(cheng)毛(mao)茸(rong)。為此，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)卷(juan)曲(qu)(qu)性愈好，愈易(yi)起(qi)球。纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)愈細，顯露在(zai)紗(sha)線表(biao)面(mian)的纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)頭端(duan)就多，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)柔軟性也愈好，因此細纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)比(bi)(bi)粗纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)易(yi)于糾纏起(qi)球。而對于纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)長度來講，較短纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)比(bi)(bi)長纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)易(yi)于起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球，因游離纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)較多，且(qie)短纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)之間的摩(mo)擦(ca)力(li)及抱合力(li)均較小，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)易(yi)于滑到織(zhi)物表(biao)面(mian)，也就容(rong)易(yi)產生起(qi)球現象。
紗(sha)線(xian)的捻(nian)度(du)(du)和表面光(guang)潔(jie)程度(du)(du)對起球也有(you)較大影(ying)響，捻(nian)度(du)(du)高的紗(sha)線(xian)，纖維(wei)間的抱(bao)合(he)緊(jin)密，紗(sha)線(xian)在受到摩擦時，纖維(wei)從紗(sha)線(xian)內滑移(yi)相對少(shao)，起球現象(xiang)減少(shao)；由(you)于羊絨衫是柔軟(ruan)性(xing)織物，過高的捻(nian)度(du)(du)會使(shi)織物發硬，因此不能靠提高捻(nian)度(du)(du)來防止起球。紗(sha)線(xian)光(guang)潔(jie)度(du)(du)的影(ying)響，紗(sha)線(xian)越光(guang)潔(jie)，表面毛茸則短而少(shao)，所以光(guang)潔(jie)紗(sha)線(xian)不易起球。
2）織(zhi)物(wu)組織(zhi)結(jie)構
織(zhi)物(wu)組(zu)織(zhi)結構疏松(song)的(de)織(zhi)物(wu)比結構緊密(mi)的(de)織(zhi)物(wu)易起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)，結構緊密(mi)的(de)織(zhi)物(wu)與外(wai)界(jie)物(wu)體摩擦(ca)時，不(bu)易產生毛(mao)茸(rong)，已經存在的(de)毛(mao)茸(rong)，又由于纖維之(zhi)間的(de)摩擦(ca)阻力(li)較大(da)，而不(bu)易滑到織(zhi)物(wu)表面來，故可減輕起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)現象(xiang)。高機號織(zhi)物(wu)一(yi)般比較緊密(mi)，所以低(di)機號織(zhi)物(wu)比高機號織(zhi)物(wu)易起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)。表面平整的(de)織(zhi)物(wu)不(bu)易起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)，表面凹凸不(bu)平的(de)織(zhi)物(wu)易起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)。
3）染整工(gong)藝(yi)的影響
紗(sha)線(xian)或(huo)(huo)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物經染(ran)色(se)及整理(li)以(yi)后(hou)，對抗起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)性將產生較大(da)影響(xiang)，這與染(ran)料、助劑、染(ran)整工藝條(tiao)件有關，以(yi)絞(jiao)紗(sha)染(ran)色(se)的(de)(de)紗(sha)線(xian)比用散毛(mao)染(ran)色(se)或(huo)(huo)毛(mao)條(tiao)染(ran)色(se)的(de)(de)紗(sha)線(xian)易(yi)起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)；以(yi)成衫(shan)染(ran)色(se)的(de)(de)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物比紗(sha)線(xian)染(ran)色(se)所(suo)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)的(de)(de)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物易(yi)起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)；織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物經過(guo)定型，特別是經樹脂整理(li)后(hou)，其抗起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)性將大(da)大(da)增強。
4）穿著條件的影響
起球現象需要從紡(fang)織品起球的(de)(de)(de)機(ji)理說(shuo)起。羊(yang)(yang)絨衫(shan)在穿著過程中，由(you)于外罩(zhao)（如(ru)外衣）施加的(de)(de)(de)摩擦等(deng)作用(yong)，紗(sha)線中較(jiao)短(duan)的(de)(de)(de)纖維(wei)的(de)(de)(de)一端(duan)滑移(yi)出來，在織物表面相互(hu)纏(chan)結成(cheng)球。而(er)羊(yang)(yang)絨纖維(wei)比羊(yang)(yang)毛的(de)(de)(de)纖維(wei)細而(er)短(duan)，加上一般的(de)(de)(de)羊(yang)(yang)絨衫(shan)為粗梳(shu)產品，羊(yang)(yang)絨紗(sha)中的(de)(de)(de)短(duan)纖維(wei)含(han)量較(jiao)高，更容易“呲”出來彼此纏(chan)結。
因此羊絨衫在內(nei)穿(chuan)(chuan)時(shi)，與(yu)其配套(tao)的外(wai)衣里子最好(hao)是光滑的，不(bu)能(neng)太粗糙(cao)、堅(jian)硬(ying)，內(nei)袋勿(wu)裝硬(ying)物(wu)或插筆等，以免局部(bu)(bu)摩(mo)(mo)擦(ca)起(qi)球；在外(wai)穿(chuan)(chuan)時(shi)，袖子與(yu)桌面、袖子與(yu)沙(sha)(sha)發(fa)扶手、背部(bu)(bu)與(yu)沙(sha)(sha)發(fa)等不(bu)要(yao)長(chang)時(shi)間摩(mo)(mo)擦(ca)。穿(chuan)(chuan)著時(shi)間不(bu)宜(yi)太長(chang)，要(yao)注意間歇、交替穿(chuan)(chuan)著，使其恢復彈力，以免纖維疲勞損(sun)傷。
羊絨衫出現(xian)起(qi)球(qiu)現(xian)象(xiang)(xiang)之后(hou)(hou)，切忌用手生拉硬扯(che)，正確的(de)方法是在洗滌后(hou)(hou)用剪刀將起(qi)的(de)絨球(qiu)輕輕地剪下，在經(jing)過幾次洗滌之后(hou)(hou)，隨著一些松散的(de)纖維脫落，羊絨衫的(de)起(qi)球(qiu)現(xian)象(xiang)(xiang)是會逐漸消失的(de)。
二、羊絨(rong)衫起球的評定
羊絨衫的(de)起(qi)球測(ce)定方法主(zhu)要采(cai)取GB/T 4802.3—2008《織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)毛起(qi)球性能(neng)的(de)測(ce)定第3部分起(qi)球箱法》。產品標準有FZ/T 73018—2012 《毛針織(zhi)(zhi)品》和FZ/T 73009—2009《羊絨針織(zhi)(zhi)品》，具體的(de)評定等(deng)級見表
表1羊絨衫起球評(ping)定指標
注(zhu)：低于二等品(pin)(pin)的為(wei)等外品(pin)(pin)。
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